Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Makeup 101: Face

Ok, so I've been using face makeup since 8th grade, but it's taken a long time for me to get it right. If you think about it, there's a lot of ways to get it wrong - you're shade can be off, you can use too much, not get enough coverage, it can look flaky, too shiny, can clog your pores, or you can end up with the dreaded face mask. Hopefully this super in depth guide can help you bypass all of that and go straight to getting the flawless, clear and glowing skin you want!

What you'll need
- facial cleanser
- facial exfoliant
- light facial moisturizer with SPF
- primer
- foundation or tinted moisturizer
- concealer
- blush
- bronzer
- face powder
- foundation brush
- makeup sponge
- concealer brush
- blush/bronzer brush
- face powder brush

1. Prepping skin - wash (if skin is oily), splash with cool water, exfoliate (this is SUPER important if your skin is flaky or dry) and moisturize if necessary with at least an SPF 15 lotion. Skin should look dewy, fresh and clean. If you have some patches of extra flaky skin, mix baking soda with a little water and rub it in little circles. Then pat on some vaseline. If you're still oily, try using some oil blotting sheets or parchment paper. If you've got a big pimple, hold an ice cube on it for a minute to reduce swelling and dab on a salicylic acid spot treatment. I'll tell you how to cover these up later. Next, warm up some primer with your fingers and smooth over skin. Ok, good to go!

2. Base makeup - One thing I can't stress enough is that less is more. Most of your "imperfections" are in your head, trust me. It's much better to let what you have show through that to try hide it behind behind a heavy mask of foundation. So most people are better suited for using a tinted moisturizer, which evens out skin tone without depositing too much makeup. If you feel you need it, try a lightweight liquid foundation. Matching you skin tone is uber important. First, take your makeup sponge and squeeze it under running water so it fills up with water (that way, it won't absorb your makeup). Put a small amount on the sponge and then pat your entire face, jaw/neck and earlobes with the makeup. Then rub with the sponge to blend into crevices and spread makeup (be gentle around eye area) until you can't see any streaks. For areas that need a little more coverage, use the foundation brush to "paint" on your makeup. If you can still see stuff you want to cover up, don't put more on - that's what concealer is for.

3. Concealer - You're going to need different types of concealer for different types of stuff you want to cover up. For under eye circles, choose a peachy colored liquid/solid concealer a teeny bit lighter than your skin tone. If your eyes are puffy put cold metal spoons on your eyes and dab on some eye cream. Use your ring finger to gently pat concealer on the purple bluish area. For pimples put a dot of yellowish concealer on the tip of the zit and blend with a concealer brush. Then use a mineral powder concealer (especially on whiteheads) to cast the illusion (like a magician! haha) that the area is flat. For redness, use a concealer the same color as your skin or one that's green (sounds crazy but it works!)

4. Warmth and color - blush and bronzer are the ultimate tools to making you look healthy (besides the obvious stuff like water, exercise, healthy eating and sleep) because they wake up your skin and make it glow. Even people that have darker skin could use some golden bronzer (see JLo in the 90s). And it's super easy! For blush, make a big smile and starting at the inner corners of your pupil, blend over the apples of your cheeks and go along your cheek bone to your temple ( DON'T just make a circle on your cheek and DON'T draw a straight line - go up). You should not be wearing so much that your bff can tell. Experiment with shades but the color should be similar to when you pinch your cheeks or after going for a run. The effect should be subtle. Same with bronzer. I love using this stuff and I think it's pretty underrated. I have pale skin, and this helps me from looking washed out or tired. What you want to do it put the bronzer on where you would naturally get tan - the top of your forehead, temples, across your nose and on your chin. Don't take this to far! Baked = BAD.

5. Finishing touches - use pressed or loose powder that matches your skin tone to sop up oil and keep your makeup from smudging away. Avoid over powdering.

Yay!! You did it! It gets easier with practice, I promise.

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